Velcro!

velcro2

If you are looking for the ultimate answer to the question “How do I keep my cables from turning into a hopeless pile of spaghetti?”, here ya go…

I like velcro…. I just don’t like paying someone to make me cable wraps that may or may not be the right size. I started asking professional sound men what the best answer was to this problem and hit pay dirt a few weeks ago.

My friend Jim told me: Go to Lowe’s and look for a roll of Velcro. I did not know that you could get this stuff in a big roll and cut your own strips. I had to ask more than one “sales associate” at Lowe’s before I finally found the stuff.

It comes in a 1 1/2 inch wide roll. The box says 30 inches by 1 1/2 inches, but this is a mis-print. It is actually a lot more than 30 inches long. It is probably 30 feet long. Whatever it is, it is a LOT of velcro…

It is one piece, fuzzy on one side and the hook stuff on the other side. No more sewing two pieces of velcro together!

You can cut it into any width you want and any length you want. I have already made a couple dozen cable wraps and still have lots more left in the roll…

The box says VELCRO brand. www.velcro.com

It was about 20 bucks. This roll will last me for years… Check it out!

 

New Burnishing / Embossing Tool

burnisher1burnisher2burnisher3

 

These photos show a new burnishing / embossing tool that I have developed and will be making available soon. The idea is to have a tool that you can hold like a pen that allows you to close the slot the whole way. The other end closes both sides like a tube type embossing tool.

I also have another version of this tool that I am including in my tool kits – same basic idea but made with a pin vise….

MB30 Sampler

 

This video is a sample of some music played on the new MB30 harmonica designed by Brendan Power and Zombor Kovacs. The MB30-S is a version of the MB30 customized by Richard Sleigh.

Light Box Becomes School Project…

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What you see here are photos of a light box built from the ideas in my sketches (below) that I posted at this website earlier. A man named Rich Eisenberg saw the drawings and started working on a version of this box. Richard runs the Bayfront Maritime Center in Erie Pennsylvania, and this facility  has a program for students, reaching out to at risk youth. They build boats. It is an amazing story.

More info here: http://www.bayfrontcenter.org/

When Rich started working on the light box, it turned into a class project. I made one change in the box, installing a different light fixture and an LED light bulb. The photo of the interior shows a temporary set up of the light fixture. The other photo is the box at my work table. It is great to be able to adjust the angle of the light box for the embossing work.

Rich drew a line through the front  right in the middle of the slot, and another one in the back board. It is a great way to include the idea of the cube shown in the drawings. – a way to check to make sure that you are not starting to lean  and get distorted feedback on your embossing… – as long as the two lines look like one line, you are centered…

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light boxlight box 2

Here are some sketches of the ultimate light box for embossing reeds. The idea here is to take a piece of plastic pipe, cut it into a half-round and then put on a flat top with a slot cut into it. You could then change the angle of the slot you look at when embossing. The slot would have a hair line above and below it that lines up with a cube that has cross hairs on it. the cross hairs line up when you have your eye centered.

Inside, you have an LED light bulb.

About the “cube”… This is plexiglas cube 1″ x 1”. I used a dial caliper to scrape cross hairs on it in the front and back, centered. Then I rubbed in black ink from a sharpie pen. It is centered above the slot that the light shines through. When you move your eye from side to side, the cross hairs tell you if you’re eye is centered. When your eye is centered The cross hairs line up and it looks like one line. When your eye is centered you see the slot more accurately.

Study the drawings to get the main idea. I am sorry – I tried to make the drawings bigger, but could not get the technical process to work with me…

Here is what I am thinking: If you want to take this idea and want to make this box, I will help you sell it. I just don’t have time to build this thing myself, but i think the idea is a winner. Plenty of people have asked me if I can make them a light box, so I know there is a market.

If you can improve on this concept, I am all for it. So – that is the contest – the winner (s) get to make some money by building light boxes for people who want to hot rod harmonicas.

Questions? – rrsleigh@gmail.com

Harmonica Work Station

work station 2 work station 1

 

What you see here is a harmonica work station built by Denis Green. He sent me these photos shortly after I started the light box contest (see last post) Denis has this set up for the Lee Oskar tool kit, and intends to invest in the R Sleigh tools sometime soon. This is made from MDF (medium density fibre) board, which Denis describes as very easy to work with. Very Cool!

Light Box Contest…

light boxlight box 2

Here are some sketches of the ultimate (?)  light box for embossing reeds. The idea here is to take a piece of plastic pipe, cut it into a half-round and then put on a flat top with a slot cut into it. You could then change the angle of the slot you look at when embossing. The slot would have a hair line above and below it that lines up with a cube that has cross hairs on it. the cross hairs line up when you have your eye centered.

Inside, you have an LED light bulb.

About the “cube”… This is plexiglas cube 1″ x 1”. I used a dial caliper to scrape cross hairs on it in the front and back, centered. Then I rubbed in black ink from a sharpie pen. It is centered above the slot that the light shines through. When you move your eye from side to side, the cross hairs tell you if you’re eye is centered. When your eye is centered The cross hairs line up and it looks like one line. When your eye is centered you see the slot more accurately.

Study the drawings to get the main idea. I am sorry – I tried to make the drawings bigger, but could not get the technical process to work with me…

Here is what I am thinking: If you want to take this idea and want to make this box, I will help you sell it. I just don’t have time to build this thing myself, but i think the idea is a winner. Plenty of people have asked me if I can make them a light box, so I know there is a market.

If you can improve on this concept, I am all for it. So – that is the contest – the winner (s) get to make some money by building light boxes for people who want to hot rod harmonicas.

Questions? – rrsleigh@gmail.com

Harmonica Reed Sorting Box

Reed BoxThis is a harmonica reed sorting box that I had custom made for me. Three drawers, each drawer has 12 rows of 10 compartments. It makes it very easy to sort and find reeds.

It is made of handcrafted solid oak.

I have decided to let it go. I now use small envelopes to sort reeds and even though it is more of a hassle to find reeds, I want to make my operation as small as possible.

This beautiful piece of is available to anyone who will make me a reasonable offer and come and get it.

You can reach me via email: rrsleigh@gmail.com

Basement Moisture Exhaust Fan…

…For the harp tech who wants some peace and quiet along with a dry basement.

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When I moved my harmonica shop into the basement of our new home in Boalsburg, Pennsylvania, I had to start using a de-humidifier. Or so I thought. For two years I suffered through the noise and heat of the dehumidifier and  the nuisance of having to empty the water from the drain pan.

This year I moved my tuning area directly into the area where I kept the dehumidifier. I hated the thought of another summer of noise and heat, so I started looking for some other way to deal with the humidity.

I ran across this article: http://www.wildmanfarm.com/?p=750

It explains that the cold air with the most moisture collects at the lowest point in your basement and if you move that air out, you also get rid of most of the moisture.

So a quiet exhaust fan at floor level ends up doing a better job of getting rid of not only moisture but stale air in general.

It is a simple idea – an exhaust fan at floor level with a switch unit that measures the level of moisture in the air – a humidistat. You can set the humidistat to kick in when the humidity rises to a particular level. I ended up tuning the knob on this so it runs all the time.

So far, I love this rig and will never go back to the dehumidifier. This rig also uses a lot less electricity than the dehumidifier.

Sure makes it a lot more pleasant to tune harmonicas!

My Favorite Tools: Sanding Jigs for Harmonica Combs

sanding jig with combsanding jig

 

I made these jigs from 1/2 inch thick plexiglass with aluminum flat stock screwed in around the edges. The plexiglas is dead flat, and the raised edge holds the comb in place so you can concentrate on moving the combs in figure eights on a piece of sandpaper, or use the jig with the belt sander without worrying about losing control.

This tool makes it very easy to put even pressure on the combs as you flatten them.

I tried making these by gluing the frame around the plexiglas, and it worked for a little while, then the glue gave way. The version you see in the photos is put together with 2-56 screws. I had to tap the plexiglas. You could drill the whole way through and use long screws and nuts to hold the sides together, or use self tapping screws. The main thing is to make it sturdy so you don’t need to worry about it coming apart.

Then you can knock out lots of flat combs in record time!

My favorite Tools: The Belt Sander

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This is my Trusty Delta 4″ x 36″ belt sander that has flattened hundreds of harmonica combs and lower reed plates ove the years. A real time saver, once you get the hang of using it. You need several different belts with different grits, including fine grit. I removed a sanding disk that was attached to the unit. (the grey plate in front on the left covers the area where the disk sander was). Also took off the piece that goes over the sanding belt to keep things from getting snagged by the belt and sent flying.

If you use a belt sander set up like this one, you can expect to send a bunch of reed plates and combs flying across the room until you get your technique together. I also removed flesh from my fingertips more than once. You have been warned!

One last tip – it is worth it to buy expensive high quality belts for your harmonica work. Keep a couple of cheaper ones on hand for household projects and other non-harmonica work. Do that and your best belts will last for years.